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Traffic Jammin’

August 20, 2012

 

You said it.

If Jakarta’s most notable features were in a competition for a Gold medal, surely traffic would beat out the grimace-inducing public art, and bottle-neck causing Kaki Limas (and with time to spare).  For it is traffic that compels every person, be they a resident or visitor, to  let out an exasperated sigh, and utter “traffic” as you would some four letter expletive, at some point (but more likely, at multiple ones) during their tenure in the city.

Sometimes I wonder why this is the case.  After all, don’t we all occassionally wish for an excuse to do nothing at all.  Friends often muse, “If I only had time to, I would read that book/learn to knit/write that novel” and yet when given loads of time (and in a cozy, temperature-controlled environment to boot), it seems all we can think of is getting on with things.

Traffic in Jakarta

Jakarta’s traffic is 25% less boring than your average Asian country.

Jakarta’s slow-as-mud pace of traffic conditions you to inching your way to a destination.  So much so that when your driver actually hits a stretch of smooth sailing (perhaps on a an early morning toll road, or during Idul Fitri) you feel like you are flying!  “Why are we going so fast?”  asks a worried child as the speedometer trebles over 40mph.

Indeed,  these bursts of speed are as close to feeling like Danica Patrick as I am likely to ever come.  So, perhaps traffic does have its merits.  Now if you’ll excuse me I need to finish my industrial rock song/traffic anthem, “MACET sekali! Macet SEKALI!.”

A bus in Jakarta

SMOOOTH? That might be false advertising.

Catching Up With Robin

August 7, 2012

Nestled in a sleepy neighborhood in Ubud, Bali is Bumi Sehat, a clinic dedicated to gentle birth practices and to providing healthcare, free of charge, to families in need. Founded by American Midwife, Robin Lim, Bumi Sehat, is proving that when it comes to childbirth, often ancient methods, combined with love and respect trump technology.

Robin emanates an energy and enthusiasm that is inescapably contagious. I had the pleasure of catching up with her on my latest trip to Bali to find out just what this hero is up to now.

Congratulations on being named CNN’s Hero for 2011.  How has winning impacted you/the work you are doing (i.e. what has become easier? Has any aspect gotten harder?)?

hummmm…. still in shock. Did that really happen? How ~ considering most of Bumi Sehat’s patients do not have computers, so they could not vote on the CNN website. I feel it proved that the world cares about healthcare as a human right. We Occupied healthcare and we occupied LOVE for an audience of over 16 million people that night. It gives me hope that “Every Mother (really does) Count” as does every baby, every family.

The waiting area at Bumi Sehat.

What’s Easier… At long last I feel the Midwifery to Mother model of care has become better known. Gentle birth is more accepted now, worldwide.  I am busier than ever, today I had a group of 63 midwives arrive for a 1/2 day Gentle Childbirth Seminar at Bumi Sehat, Bali. They took a bus from Semarang, Java. This was the second such group, since last week, when I broke my foot.  I know I am supposed to stay off of the foot, but these young midwives are so eager to learn all about gentle birth… they wish to learn how protecting brand new infants from trauma is peace building, one baby at a time. I love their open hearts, eager minds, and their hands hold the future generation in kindness and safely. I’m supposed to inspire them, but they inspire me! Ten days ago I was in Jakarta, and did a Gentle Childbirth seminar for 1,500 Indonesian midwifery students, and their teachers. Last month I was honored to speak 900 Midwives at the Philippine League of Midwives and 600 nurses.

Even with all the speaking engagements, I still just love the quiet time, spent rubbing a mom’s back in labor.  I love kneeling beside her, as she brings her baby earth side. My daughter-in-love had our 3 grandchild last month, miracles, miracles, each arrival.

Fundraising is a bit easier, but I do need to get our new clinic built, and the $300.000 from CNN is not enough, plus I must keep operational funds flowing. Some people think; “Well she won the hero thing, so Bumi Sehat is set up financially.” I wish it were so. My day to day fundraising efforts continue. Patient care is growing… people need healthcare… and though Bumi Sehat provides it for free, someone has to pay for it. In this case the donors. And, our educational programs are growing, we just published a new book in Bahasa Indonesia, which we are giving away (5,000 copies), “IbuAlami” (Natural Mother).

I keep fantasizing about a quieter life, but it’s not going to happen anytime soon.

People probably assume that building a new clinic in Bali would be easy.  Anyone who has lived in Indonesia knows better.  What are your challenges, and what can people do to help today?

Robin Lim with a few friends.

You are so right when you speak of building in Indonesia (or anywhere) being a challenge. A clinic this size must be earthquake resistant. There are the Dept. of Health regulations to meet. Our patient care is so increased, it will need to be much bigger that the present clinic. The midwives, the doctors, the nurses, the educators, the administration team, all need space to do their work, plus we want it to be solar powered, like our clinic in Aceh. So the new clinic is a design challenge. I have faith that the vision will take shape; it must quite soon, as our lease in the current clinic is finished in 3 years.

Your poetry book The Geometry of Splitting Souls, was a poignant read.  Any plans for another?  How do you find time to write with everything else going on?

A New Mom at Bumi Sehat

At the moment the Genie of poetry is not speaking to me. I have just completed a new book: “The Natural Family Planning Workbook… a Lifestyle of nonviolence”. Earlier this year I wrote: “Eat Pray Doula” which will be released on-line very soon.  I am rewriting “After the Baby’s Birth” for a Filipino edition. I am also making an English version of “Natural Mother” to be released in Tagalog next year (It was already released in Bahasa Indonesia). More of my childbirth books will be coming out in Italian soon. So you can see why the poetry Genie is leaving me alone. I miss writing poetry, but it is something that comes or it does not.  I am most excited about a book I am finishing now, it’s fiction, based on the real-life stories of women, called; “Bali… a Cage in Paradise.” I am always happy to stop writing and run off to the clinic, day or night, and help the midwives receive a baby into the world.

The Prenatal Check-up Room at Bumi Sehat

What don’t people understand about the work you do and the challenges you face?

I don’t feel nearly as misunderstood or lonely in this work as I used to.  The fact that doing a very grassroots, Maternal and Child health project, that tries to be as natural and culturally appropriate as possible, means getting passed over for the Gates Foundation Grants, is frustrating. The big players in the funding world want to find high technology. Childbirth is ancient, and I like it that way. Sure, technology can save lives, but when not needed it interferes with the authenticity that is an essential part of becoming a mother.  The USA is now #50 in maternal mortality, meaning it is safer to give birth in 49 other countries that spend less than the USA on Childbirth technology. This is shameful. It also points to the fact that technology alone cannot make motherhood safer. Technology must be married to good old fashioned wisdom. This is where the midwives come in. I feel that the challenge of helping people understand this is getting easier now.  However, two nights ago a young Balinese woman was frightened into having her baby by cesarean. The OBGYN I work with and our midwives felt there was no reading at all for this young woman to suffer surgery, and her family is still trying to pay for it. The doctor she was seeing simply lied; he told her blood pressure of 113/74 was dangerously high. We knew that was not the truth, but she did not believe us. Her doctor also pointed out that her baby was a boy, and because there is so much pressure to produce a male child in Balinese culture, her husband’s family all pressured her to have a cesarean, so as not to take chances on losing a male child. Natural childbirth is considered dangerous, at least those in medicine who stand to make more money, and faster, by doing cesareans make it seem so. It just hurts my heart when women are driven by fear and lies into surgery. Hurts even more when medical institutions sabotage breastfeeding.

In those moments when things seem overwhelming, what moves you forward and keeps you motivated?

Robin Lim & her new grandson

My family, they are just amazing. Our 19 year old youngest son just qualified as an EMT, and passed his National Exams in the USA, so that he can help with our free ambulance and emergency medical services at Bumi Sehat. All of my children and my husband are supportive and amazing. The Bumi Sehat team in Bali and in Aceh are just the most devoted people to work with. Sometimes when we have 5 women in labor, and we are so tired, and it’s 3 a.m., we midwives burst out laughing and hugging, because we are working with our best friends. Bumi Sehat is just magical that way.

One night, not so long ago, Ibu Rusmini was having her 2nd baby, and two other moms were also about to give birth. Rusmini’s Baby’s heart rate dropped, to below 40 beats per minute (normal is 120 to 160). Rusmini was pushing, we were giving her oxygen and changing her position to side-lying, to try to help relieve the stress on the baby, but nothing was working, we feared the baby would be stillborn. Then, Ibu Maria, our midwife from TimorLeste, remembered our secret… she said, “Wait a minute… I LOVE YOU!” to Rusmini. The mother pushing as heard as she could, smiled, and said to all of us, “I LOVE YOU!” All the midwives and the young father said, “I LOVE YOU!” We checked the baby’s heart rate; it was 120BPM, right back up to normal!  This baby boy was born with a cleft palate and harelip. But his parents were so full of gratitude that he made it. He will have free surgery withYayasan Senyum, as soon as he is 5 kilos. He’s growing and he’s strong, and Baby Kadek is alive, because of the power of LOVE. And, that’s how we do birth at Bumi Sehat.

If people wish to help Bumi Sehat here’s how:

From inside of the United States you may send a check to:
Bumi Sehat Foundation International
25 Colby Street
Barre, VT  05641
USA
 
For both International and Domestic wires you need our name, address (above) and Account #: 1321649980
 RBS Citizens N. A. (Citizens Bank)
1 Citizens Drive
Riverside, RI 02915
for International wires you need this Swift Code: CTZIUS33
For domestic wires:  ABA/Routing # 011500120
or:
PT. Bank Negara Indonesia (BNI) 
Branch: Denpasar KLN Ubud 
Address: Jl. Gajah Mada, No. 30, Denpasar, Bali, Indonesia 
Account Name: Yayasan Bumi Sehat, Ds. PKR Nyuh Kuning 
IDR Account # 117 765 425
Swift code: BNINI DJADPS 
 
Yayasan Bumi Sehat 
Nyuh Kuning Village  
PO Box 116, Ubud, Bali 80571 Indonesia 
Phone:  +62 361 970 002 
Fax: +62 361 972 969 
Email: info@bumisehatbali.org 

smART Marketing

May 26, 2012

It was that time of year again for Dia.lo.gue Artspace’s smART Market. This time around there was something for art lovers of all ages, at this eclectic market featuring independent designers and handmade goodies.

A little Encounter, by Angela Judiyanto

Inside the gallery there was an enticing exhibit featuring mixed media works and art installations. Natasha Tontey’s Rhyme Stew looked like a creepy melting-pot of childhood playthings, while Angela Judiyanto’s installation, A Little Encounter, featured a collection of glass jars with quiet narratives painted tableaux-style on their interiors.

Rhyme Stew, a mixed media installation by Natasha Tontey

Dialogue Artspace KEMANG

A Little Encounter, Mixed Media Installation by Angela Judiyanto

Sanchia Hamidijaja could be found at a stand which featured the kind of creative toy any child would be lucky to receive–>ultracool rocking horses. This special collection of imaginative toys from Jilsi (designed by Sanchia H. & Ardi Gunawan) are just the thing to keep active toddlers happy.

Super Cool Rocking Stools designed by Sanchia Hamidjaja & Ardi Gunawan

The talented pair behind Ghost Juelerie, Yasmina Yesy and Agra Satria, was on hand with some of their latest jewelry creations.  Their jewelry, much like their large-scale artworks, is a captivating, mysterious, and bold mix of unexpected materials and shapes.   Who can resist Ghost necklaces which effortlessly possess such sinuous appeal?

The amazing duo behind Ghost Juelerie, Agra Satria and Yesmina Yesy

For a welcome dose of quirky sweetness, Inez Tiara’s table showcased a variety of original collage artworks along with charming totes and playful jewelry, to satiate even the most the jaded soul.

Dia.lo.gue Artspace smART Market

Tote-ally Sweet! Cuteness by Inez Tiara

Overall Dia.lo.gue’s latest smART Market was {as usual} a full-on fun and entertaining way to spend a Saturday.  I for one am hoping that it becomes a monthly rather than semi-annual event.

The smART scene

For Information on Dia.lo.gue’s roster of upcoming events visit: https://www.facebook.com/dialogueartspace

☞ It Could Have Been A Perfect World

February 18, 2012

Adhyatmika's Latest Film

Adhyatmika makes thoughtful, insightful, sometimes funny, but always evocative short films. His latest film, It Could Have Been a Perfect World, is a beautifully scenic and poignant short film that in 9 minutes and 41 seconds delivers a haunting dose of nostalgia and longing.

Banjo Tasning inIt Could Have Been A Perfect World

The film opens with a man standing in an open field questioning the nature of memories. In a bitter monologue he begs the question, is what we remember, really what happened? But his sardonic tone quickly warms up as he calls to mind the more tender moments spent with the object of his affection. As the details of their time together unfold in a reverie that is at once achingly nostalgic and keenly poetic, the film exposes the fragile nature of relationships and the capacity of memory to reinstate old feelings.

Priscilla Jamail in It Could Have Been A Perfect World

It Could have Been a Perfect World is a picturesque short film with a unique plot, and music that includes a great song by Yudhi Arfani (Table for Two). While it was shot in just two days, Adhyatmika’s most recent project took two years to complete. Why did a 9 minute film take so long to finish? Well, let’s just say, for Adhyatmika the film was a deeply personal project and one that he was devoted to getting just right. His commitment to realizing his vision has paid off as the film conveys the wistful melancholy that anyone who has endured a broken heart can relate to.

For More Information:
It Could Have Been a Perfect World on Facebook
Random Panda Films on YouTube
 

☞ Making Connections

January 20, 2012

Leona Scull-Hons, Dance With Me Sarah Style

In the midst of a social media revolution it is rare to find someone as dedicated to exploring and cultivating personal relationships as is artist Leona Scull-Hons. Her works are beautiful and poignant examinations of the mechanics of firsthand connections. For these contemplative works, Leona abandons predictable tools, choosing instead to employ interaction as the primary medium in the facture of her art.

Leona Scull-Hons, Mend

In her work, Mend, Leona sewed a paper dress and wore it every day for seven days. Leona explains, “Every night to ensure that the dress would remain functional, rips and tears were mended. Each day a different color thread was used to repair the dress. The thread served as a device that recorded daily activities.” Sweat stains and dirt marks accumulated throughout the week and served as vestiges of the days’ activities. The dress itself, “looked like a wedding dress and it was very loud/crunchy at first. People wondered, ‘why is she so dressed up’?” That spark of curiosity, started conversations and interactions that otherwise would not have taken place.

Dance with Me Sarah Style

With her performance piece Dance with Me Sarah Style (named after a free-spirited friend), Leona used activity as a means to engage people. Here she made a small dance floor (dusted with a thin layer of sawdust or baby powder) and asked strangers to dance with her at the exhibit’s opening. Overcoming the initial awkwardness, and engaging a person one on one in an adventitious way, Leona’s work turns a chance encounter into a special experience. After the opening the dance floor, now blanketed with shoe prints and smudges, provided a visual narrative of the events that had taken place on its surface.

Artist Leona Scull-Hons in the Gallery

Leona isn’t concerned with creating sellable objects, her art is not a commodity– instead her work, relies on vulnerability, trust, and happenstance as compositional elements with an engineered experience as the final product in her creative process. Perhaps the work which best illustrates her exhaustive commitment to cultivating improbable connections, is her Framing Domestics interactive project. Leona explains that, this project which took place over several months, “began when I called one random household. The individual on the phone was given the choice to choose one cooking, cleaning or pampering service for me to execute for them free of charge (example: cook a peach cobbler, clean an oven, give a manicure, etc.).” A key element in the project, was that the recipient had to converse with her as she worked for them. In return for completing the task, and only if the experience was a positive one, she asked that the person recommend her to a friend such that she could go to that person’s house and complete a random assignment for them too. Leona completed over 70 service projects. Each time when she would arrive at a person’s house she found that, “at first people would be sort of standoffish-then people would open up–but everyone opens up in a different way…even if it felt awkward at first, in the end, it felt right.”

Leona Scull-Hons, Framing Domestics

Breaking through the clumsy newness of a first encounter and finding that place where things start to feel familiar and comfortable, is a theme Leona delves into with an earnest devotion and deft grace. She adds, “I treated the action with as much sincerity as a painting.” Her skillful fabrication of art that deals with the intricacies of human interaction is a perceptive testament to the conceivable beauty and underrated significance of everyday connections.

This article of mine first appeared in Jakarta’s SUB Magazine.  It is reprinted here with permission. : )

☞The Marfa Mystique: How a tiny town in the middle of the desert became the trendiest city in Texas

January 14, 2012

This article of mine originally appeared in SUB Magazine.  It is reprinted here with permission…

This is Marfa

Marfa, Texas

I fell in love with Marfa on a college road trip some ten years ago.  Before I even set foot in the tiny west Texas town, I knew I was headed somewhere inherently special.  As an Art History student in San Antonio, Texas I was compelled to take the pilgrimage to the place that American Minimalist Artist Donald Judd had anointed as the town that would inherit his legacy.  Judd, in a remarkable move, built the Chinati Foundation, not in a locus of the Art Universe like New York or Los Angeles, or even in a city that people were familiar with or could easily get to.  Instead in a move deemed by art historians to be both innately egotistical and intrinsically divine, Judd completed his vision in Marfa.

The Chinati Foundation, Marfa Texas

Ballroom Marfa

Those who have not been there must surely ask themselves, why Marfa?  The fact of the matter was that Donald Judd wanted solitude and the specialness that comes with being singular and separated from the clutter of the urban landscape.  He took his own road trip and found abandoned military warehouses, remnants of America’s involvement in WWII.  Large and stark, these buildings were ideal for housing his works which need exactly such spaces to be fully absorbed and understood by the viewer.  Purchasing the buildings with the support of the Dia Art Foundation in NY, Judd displayed his work in a landscape–not a gallery or a museum or some other artificial edifice.  Out in the open with nothing around for miles and miles, his aluminum boxes and concrete cubes formed a kinship with the land.

Marfa, Texas

Since that first journey to pay homage to an artist who forever shaped Contemporary Art, I have been back several times.  Each time veering away from Marfa’s hometown hero, and instead spending time with those that have followed in his footsteps and made Marfa their own palette for creative contemplation and artistic endeavor.

Marfa Texas

“The duality/contrast of Marfa is part of its intrigue,” notes Tex Toler, Director of Tourism for the City of Marfa, who I met after wandering into to the Visitor Center and being instantly greeted by this friendly man in a cowboy hat.  Tex explains, “If Marfa were closer to a major metropolitan area, or especially NOT in Texas–or closer to LA, or NYC, or even Dallas, that contrast would not be that unusual.  Its remoteness, its Western location and history of cattle and cowboys makes the juxtaposition of the minimalist, contemporary, reductive art ethic here even more stark.  I’m reminded of that daily from my vantage point from the visitor center as diesel, dual pickup trucks with authentic cowboys and ranchers pulling long, cattle trailers full of livestock rumble past galleries of modern art, while tattooed, pierced twenty-somethings ride their bikes on the sidewalks.  Or the Swedish or German artists-in-residence at the Chinati Foundation adopt cowboy boots and wide-brimmed cowboy hats with their otherwise goth-themed fashions.”

visitmarfa.com

Tex fell in love with Marfa on his own road trip in high school.  He explains, “Having known of Marfa, fascinated by its architecture and story since my first visit, I’d hoped for years there would be a way to live here with a decent enough paying job to afford living here.  When a friend called me about a job posting, I applied, and here I am!”

Falling in love with the city, and finding a way to make it home was a recurring theme on my trip while talking to the people I encountered, each of whom were infatuated with the tiny town, and virtually none of whom were originally from the city.

Squeeze Restaruant, Marfa, Texas

The patio--Squeeze Marfa

Take Verena Zbinden-Vollenweider, owner of Squeeze Marfa–a tiny Swiss Café located across from the city’s Court House.  Verena was born in Switzerland but moved to Marfa after finding the town to be the perfect spot to retire.  “Marfa is a small town where life is simple and the weather is close to perfect!  I love going to art openings and to readings at the bookstore and I also love the landscape” she tells me while serving up one of her signature dishes, ‘The Flying Dutchman’ as we chat in her bustling Café.  I look around her restaurant, and see hippy artists sipping iced coffees, while a cowboy orders a sandwich at the counter, and I start to understand the duality that Tex had referenced the day before.

The Wrong Art Store, Marfa Texas

Buck Johnston at her Wrong Art Store

There is a definite communal spirit that percolates through the town.  Its occurrence is an anomaly both in its manifestation in modern America, as well as with the population it accounts for.  Tex defined the community dynamic as one where “Cowboys mingle in the local bars, and local ranching families come to the art and performances along with the NYC, European and LA newcomers and visitors.  All dine together at the same restaurants, while celebrities enjoy their meals and conversations largely unmolested by gawkers or autograph seekers.  It’s a ‘chill’, laid back, and casual community.  There are those same twenty-somethings here to either find themselves, lose themselves, or reinvent themselves.  But, just as many 40/50 somethings too—here to escape the rat race, retire early, or finally do what they’ve always wanted to do—write, paint, or just enjoy life in a beautiful, slow-paced, setting, friendly small town atmosphere.”

Adam Bork, Food Shark

“Scenery, people, and only 1 traffic light” are what lured Austin-born Adam Bork, co-owner of Marfa’s beloved mobile eatery Food Shark, to the little city.  “Marfa is great and makes me feel good.  Austin is terrible and makes me feel bad” Adam (who is also an artist, composer and musician) lucidly articulates as he hands me a Kennedy half-dollar in change for my lunch.  Marfa defiantly has the personality of a big city with the heart of a small town. It’s what makes art installations like German artists Michael Elmgreen and Ingar Dragset’s, Prada Marfa (2005) sculpture so perfectly poignant and relevant.  The sculpture which looks like a tiny Prada store in the middle of the desert is actually an artwork that will decay over time, eventually becoming a capitalist ruin.  Indeed, on the day I visited the work, bullet holes and graffiti were emblazoned on the sculpture.  Nevertheless, the work is a testament to Marfa’s intrigue and ability to attract major artists and inspire important work today, just as in 1971 when Judd first visited the town.

Marfa Lights

It’s this deft creative energy inherent to Marfa that is hard to beat, and even harder to explain.  Just as the night horizon reveals Marfa’s Mystery Lights (a seemingly mystical occurrence, unique to the town) so too is the prolific visionary force, or, as Tex puts it the, “enigmatic ‘magic’  here, of which both locals and newcomers/visitors always mention.”

Artists in Marfa Texas

Buck Johnston & Campbell Bosworth

“Someone once told us that everyone in Marfa is here for a reason.  Something has called you here.  We believe that.”  Says Buck Johnston as she shows me around her beautiful side project, the Wrong art store one searing hot afternoon.  The little store is filled with the work of her husband, artist Campbell Bosworth.  His works include ceramics, wood carvings, paintings and sculptures with a focus Narco Corridos (a Mexican song tradition about the narcotics trade), the politics of the border, and the ongoing cartel wars.  Buck is the owner of bbgun interactive, a Dallas-based business, which makes a long commute between the two cities a requirement.  When I ask her why she loves Marfa she tells me, “We always say: We moved to a town of 2000 and our world expanded.”  I’m at the end of my trip and I find her words easy to appreciate.  This tiny town in the middle of nowhere is definitely the center of something great.

The Prada Marfa Artwork, Marfa, Texas

☞ Super Nifty Crafty Time! DIY Rainbow Pencil Necklace

January 5, 2012

Craft IdeasI came across this idea on Etsy and thought it was brilliant. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had to fish out art supplies from between airplane seats or rescued colored pencils from couch crevices. This necklace is the perfect solution, and it’s super cute to boot! If you don’t have the time/desire to make one yourself, you can order one from JK PEG LEG. Otherwise, it makes for a fun project. My son loved picking out the colors for his necklace.

All you need is colored pencils, sharp scissors (I used my Joyce Chen scissors), a drill, and some string.

Step One: Pick out the colors you love…

WANDERLUSTANDWONDER.COM CRAFTING IDEAS

Step Two: Cut your chosen pencils to the desired length…

WANDERLUSTANDWONDER.COM DIY CRAFT

Step Three: Drill a hole about a half inch from the end of your pencil…

WANDERLUSTANDWONDER.COM CREATIVE IDEAS

DIY Creative Ideas

Step Four: Run string or yarn through the hole…

Rainbow Pencil Necklace

Step Five: Enjoy! & Happy Crafting :)

DIY GIFTS FOR KIDS

☞ Baby Love

November 21, 2011

Pagi’s daughter was barely a day old and about to experience her first ceremony.  For the midwives at Bumi Sehat, this was a routine occurrence, but for the newborn and myself, it was something new.  Bumi Sehat is a tiny clinic in Ubud that provides midwifery, general health, and community outreach services for thousands of ‘marginalized, displaced and low-income people from all faiths and cultures’.

The clinic is small and crowded with caregivers and patients, but the mood is cheerful as I observe the daily ongoings. I’ve come to Bumi Sehat to visit Robin Lim, or Mother Robin, as she has come to be called.  Robin founded Bumi Sehat in 1995.  Her commitment to serving the poor and to promoting holistic health care and ‘gentle birth’ practices have garnered her many admirers from across the globe.

Cord Burning Ceremony at Bumi Sehat in Ubud Indonesia

On this day, a CNN crew has arrived to film her as she is one of top ten nominees for Hero of the Year.  As she chats with the crew, a volunteer midwife invites me to see something special—a cord burning ceremony. Having never heard of this practice I was curious to see what it would entail.  Stacy, who is the volunteer coordinator for the foundation, takes me into a small room, where a beautiful newborn surrounded by her family is about to be separated from the placenta. The placenta has been placed in a bin and covered in flowers. Candles are lit and handed to the parents and cardboard is placed between the neonate and the action to protect her from the heat. The room is completely calm.  Pagi’s daughter peers contentedly at the candles, attracted no doubt to their gentle glow.  Stacy and the baby’s parents start to sing a lullaby as the flame is placed on the cord.

Cord Burning Ceremony at Bumi Sehat in Ubud Indonesia

The process of severing the cord with fire was one that started out of hygienic necessity.  Following the 2004 tsunami in Aceh, Bumi Sehat established a clinic to offer medical care to disaster victims. They found it difficult to keep tools sterile, and needed a way to cut the umbilical cord in a hygienic and safe manner. Thus, they used candles, which were readily available and the most practical means of hygienically cutting the umbilical cord.  What was born out of necessity became a special happening offered to interested parents in their Ubud Clinic.

Cord Burning Ceremony at Bumi Sehat Ubud Indonesia

Illuminated by candle light and soothed by a gentle song, Pagi’s daughter remained remarkably calm yet alert during the ten minute ritual.  Usually cutting the cord is left to the attending Doctor, or perhaps the father, but here, surrounded by her family the baby was freed in a beautiful and meaningful way and one where her mother was able to join too.

Practices like these, where the whole family participates alongside the health care provider, make Bumi Sehat a sought after affair by wealthy patrons from Jakarta as well.  But the clinic remains a donation-based center, dependent upon kind patrons and generous benefactors, in a continuing effort to provide for those who otherwise could not afford quality healthcare.  Thus Robin is on the campaign trail.  Tirelessly encouraging people to vote for her on CNN’s website, as the prize money would mean Bumi Sehat would finally be able to build a proper clinic, with room and facilities to appropriately accommodate the volume of people and the variety of medical concerns they see/address every day.

Cord Burning Ceremony at Bumi Sehat Ubud Indonesia

Pagi’s baby drifts off to sleep.  Her first ceremony behind her, today she will leave the clinic.  Nestled in her mother’s arms, her parents tell me how grateful they are for Robin’s work and support in Ubud.  Having seen Robin’s positive impact and incredible dedication first hand, I share their sentiment.  As I left the clinic, thinking of how Pagi’s daughter deserves caring healthcare, yet her family doesn’t own a computer, I went back to my hotel and began to vote, everyday, ten times a day. It is an easy yet meaningful gesture. And one I hope you might make too…

Cord Burning Ceremony Bumi Sehat

☞ To find out how you too can support this tiny clinic with a big heart visit: Bumi Sehat Online and please vote for Robin for CNN’s Hero of the Year award.

☞ Gettin’ Caught in the Rain

November 2, 2011

On my birthday we went to see the Sacred White Herons of Bali.  Said to be lost souls of those killed and buried without due rites in a 1965  failed coup attempt – the white birds descend by the thousands each evening on a tiny stretch of land in the village of Petulu.

The Sacred White Herons of Petulu Bali

The village is quiet at dusk, except for the sound of wings flapping and the birds communicating to each other.  As we were taking in all the beauty of the lush village and its gentle inhabitants, the sky opened up and rain poured down.

The Sacred Herons of Petulu

The Sacred Herons of Petulu Bali

We ducked into the first form of shelter we found.  A garage just big enough for the motorcycle inside.  As we shook off the rain, we noticed a woman was making an offering on the motorcycle.  Nonetheless she welcomed us and told us to stay as long as we liked.

Motorcycle Offering Petulu Bali

Outside children ran with reckless abandon.  Children the world over love to play in the rain.  I remember jumping in puddles myself, loving it when water made its way through my shoes and my toes became ‘squishy’.

The Sacred Herons of Petulu Bali

It was a beautiful way to enjoy getting a little older, while still remembering the importance of remaining young at heart.

The Sacred Herons of Petulu Bali

☞ Yes, We Have No Bananas

November 1, 2011

As we walked into the forest, we felt something was not right.  It was a little too quiet.  Something was off.  We held our backpacks a little tighter, as we knew there were creatures here.  Creatures that would snatch away our precious belongings, and search ravenously for one thing…

Monkey Forest Ubud

We walked carefully. A twig snapped, our eyes darted left to right, but there was nothing.  We felt the trees watching us, and laughed nervously as our fears seemed to be unfounded.  But then, we spotted one…

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Monkey Forest Ubud

In the heart of Ubud, Bali there is sacred ground, home to hundreds of  entertaining and tenacious long-tailed macaques.  If they suspect you carry bananas with you, they will quietly stalk you, waiting for the opportunity to pounce and steal the sweet treasure.  If you do not posses the desired offering any consolation prize will do…perhaps your sunglasses or water bottle will catch their eye.

Monkey Forest Road

Indeed, on this visit to Monkey Forest, I saw a worker trying to unclog the fountain that sits along a path in the sanctuary.  As he reached into the drain pipe, he pulled out a pair of glasses,  a slingshot, and a plastic toy–items the monkeys had snatched and hidden.

Monkey Forest Ubud, Indonesia

Monkey Forest Sanctuary Ubud, Indonesia

The monkeys are fun to watch as they play and vie for treats.  As I took a picture of this monkey, he caught a glimpse of his reflection in my lens and was fascinated by what he saw. My camera has no zoom power at all, so I have to get really close to my subjects to get a good portrait.

The Monkeys of Ubud

Monkey Forest Ubud

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*A word of advice–>Whatever you do, don’t hide bananas under your shirt or in your pockets.  I’ve seen too many tourists try to get away with this (like the monkeys haven’t seen this a hundred times before), and let’s just say, a hungry monkey will go to any length to get a banana. Any length.  And, there are many humans there with cameras ready to thoroughly document your hazing.  Videos like that are youtube gold.*

Monkey Forest Ubud, wanderlustandwonder.com

 Mandala Wisata Wenara Wana (Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary) 
 Address :  Jalan Monkey Forest, Ubud,  Bali, Indonesia (80571)
Phone       : +62 361 971304, 972774
Email         : info@monkeyforestubud.com
Website : http://www.monkeyforestubud.com
Opening hours :  Everyday from 8 am – 6 pm